Santiago - the Place

We had planned to visit Finisterre, some 100km to the west of Santiago and the westernmost piece of land in the ancient world. Thus the name, which means end of the earth: "finis" + "terre". But we were just not up to it - our bodies require rest. Besides, it looks like rain.

view of a threatening sky from our room window

Our official document indicates a Camino journey of 799km, but that is more or less as the crow flies, without changes according to attractiveness or safety. I tracked every step we took, all the diversions to walk through quieter woodlands instead of along freeways, or to visit a particular site of interest. All of these are official Camino marked, so I suppose they assumed the average pilgrim would just do the shortest way possible. I also included our evening rambles and rest day footprints. All told, our grand total was 1,017.5 kilometres! Considerably more than the 900 we had researched. No wonder we feel a bit run down.

It seems ironic that we have contracted the flu in Spain. But it's even more ironic as the so-called Spanish Flu didn't originate in Spain at all; in fact, it had nothing to do with Spain. But Spain was the only country reporting on such things in 1918, when other countries were too obsessed with war secrecy that the dreadful flu news came from a back channel. It was the last world-wide pandemic and a monstrous one. Ours is just a persistent cough in comparison.

a terrace at our hotel/seminary

Instead, we spent a lovely day just wandering around Santiago. The old city is an oval shaped warren of narrow, cobbled streets, interesting shops and cafes, and lovely squares. We ventured into a park - already we are craving nature again! We realize that nature provides calm and solace, while people provide intellectual stimulation and community, both necessary.

We went back for a closer view of the Cathedral,

We didn't indulge in a platter of seafood for which this city is known but did have scallops (of course)

wonderful bowls of Galician soup, made with potatoes, big white beans and what is either turnip tops or kale but which they call chard, all in a delicious broth. That with some good bread was all we needed. Although we did have a tasting of our last Tarta de Santiago, a tart made with almonds with the icing sugar cutout design of the cross of St. James.

Tomorrow we take a 12 hour bus ride, a little heartbreakingly covering more than half the ground we walked, back along the north coast to Bilbao, but which has an airport better sized for our return home Friday.