4 Doctors

Samos's monastery is the oldest and largest one in the western world still going strong, lived in and run by monks. Its sits squarely in a rich, damp valley, despite a bit of its importance worn off along with its stone facades. It was started in the 6th century, although there is not a lot of that early stuff around. Not really surprising - we are talking about 1500 years!

In the 10th century it went Benedictine (courtesy of Alfonso II

who was studying at the monastery, and who was the instigator of the Camino de Santiago - more about him later) and became even more powerful and wealthy, controlling 200 towns, 105 churches and 150 other monasteries. I always wonder about the reality and success of a single-gendered society, despite the talented monks that did emerge. Perhaps the two huge fires the place suffered - one in the 16th century that required 2 centuries to rebuild and another in the mid-20th century that destroyed the library were a sign - but of course I can't possibly comment.

The fact that the 18th century Fountain of the Nereiads shows buxom female spirits,

and the outsized 20th century murals in the cloister (outlining the life of St. Benedict) also included a vast number of idealized female forms made me suspicious again.

seven deadly sins - with Lust the only female

In the church, above the "floating" cross with its alpha and omega,

the gold cross above the altar appears to float,
although wires can be seen if one looks at the right angle

in the four squinches (delightful architectural term), are four famous doctors of the church who wrote extensively about the Virgin Mary (again, obsessing about a female, my cynical brain says to itself). I was amused and satisfied to see them, particularly of San Anselmo, who looks just like a medaieval Elton John, an unmonklike person if there ever is one!

dig those yellow shades!