Map of the Camino Frances

Friday, October 12, 2018

Best Bridge Award

goes to Hospital De Orbigo.

The Romans used this key position, fording the river Orbigo, as a town base to control transportation to gold fields. The Visigoths liked it too, as did Alfonso III who defeated the Moors here in 878 AD.

The town itself has several names, the most common of which is due to its famous pilgrim hospice (now long gone). This was the hospice run by the Knights Templar, who used the town as a base in the 13th century, resulting in another name for the town: Encomienda de Orbigo. But locals tend to call it Puente de Orbigo, which means Orbigo's Bridge.

But this fabulous bridge, which has seen a few of its arches rebuilt at various times over the centuries, is known more for one particular medaeival event, a jousting match, which was probably Europe's very last true medaeival tournament. There is some professional speculation that the lead character in this real event was the basis for Cervantes's literary knight Don Quixote.

In 1434, when the age of chivalry was at its most pronounced and almost ridiculous height, with its courtly rules and strict social codes that stifled normal human behaviour, there was a knight from Leon who challenged everyone to bring their best lances and try to cross the bridge. This was a big deal, and nobles came from all over Europe to try to best him. Now one could. After days and days of ceremonial activities and courtly events, Suero de Quinones defeated 300 takers, breaking all there lances, thus freeing him from the bounds of love to his secret lady and took off the iron collar he had put around his neck, presenting it to judges, pledging to walk to Santiago as a pilgrim. There is a jeweled bracelet in the Cathedral of Santiago that I hope to see in the Cathedral museum, which Suero gave as a further token of his release form the prison of love.

I told you. The age of chivalry ended up with some wacky customs!

Now there is just this big field by and under the bridge, but it is not hard to imagine horses charging at each other in their colourful livery, with the clash of armour shining in the summer sun, the wave of pennants on the tents set up to provide cheer for the crowds that gathered to watch this splendid spectacle that lasted for several weeks. Can there be many bridges in the world having witnessed (and participated in) so many centuries of famous actions, and yet still stands to carry pilgrims by the hundred every day.



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