Memories of the Meseta - 1 (of many)

As we left our better than usual albergue dinner, we decided to walk to the Plaza Mayor to see the locals sitting on benches (older ones) and running around, riding bikes and shouting (younger ones). Turning a corner we found a band of about 12 young musicians, all dressed in the same type of tee-shirt, playing familiar tunes.

The local ladies danced, and the local men drank beer and tapped their feet. One tune merged into another and the musicians`stamina was impressive.

In another village (Fromista) we were able to get into St. Martin, a heavily renovated church (originally built in 1066 while William the Conqueror was visiting England for the first time) of stone. There is no stone in the area so it would have had to be brought in, which would have been no small cost in both labour and finances.To modern tastes it is a lovely calm place, but would have been brightly painted, as well as being extremely well carved and ornamented.

the two round towers are rare

but the rest is a classic design

well executed carvings...

of myths and legends well known to those at the time....

but now forgotten

a rare black madonna and child

I wish you could hear as well as see this lovely moment

While we sat there, only two or three others milling around, another pilgrim sitting in front of us started to sing. Rapt, we sat still as she let her voice fill the space, its acoustics shaping the tune and swirling it around columns to our ears. After about 10 minutes she got up and left. We just looked at each other, and finally exhaled.

Later we found her at a cafe bar and thanked her for her gift to us. She was French, and had taken part in a UNESCO Youth Forum at which a piece of music was composed and sung in praise of peace. What she sang in San Martin was part of that music.

Our other musical incident (so far) was in the small town of Carrion de los Condes, in the 12th century church Santa Maria del Camino that was built to celebrate the defeat of the Muslims. Apparently, as part of the surrender agreement, Christians had to hand over 100 virgins every year to the Moorish overloads. Praying to be rid of this dreadful tribute duty, a herd of bulls attacked the Moors and ran them off. Not surprisingly, a bull was carved into the exterior arch, as well as some no doubt relieved and happy virgins.

Finding the church open (most of them are closed when we pass by) we went in to have a look. within 5 minutes about 20 other pilgrims came in, along with 3 nuns. One, in her early 20s, sat at a piano and sang a series of lovely songs - not hymns but old pieces in Latin. Another young nun`s voice sometimes accompanied her. There was a short blessing to all pilgrims, then more music. It was hard to keep the old peepers dry.

Another lovely surprise. I wonder the Camino will give us next.