San Juan de Ortega - the person and the place

San Juan de Ortega was a disciple of the great Santo Domingo written about earlier, who also devoted his life to serve the Santiago pilgrims. He was particularly good at building things, and he proved this with bridges, hospitals, churches and hostels all over the region. This included an Augustinian monastery in one of the most isolated and dangerous parts of the path for the medieval pilgrim, full of wild animals and thieves. It was built in 1150 and remains in good condition.

Born Juan Velazquez, the future San Juan completed his own pilgrimage to the Holy Land after Santo Domingo died. On his way back home, he was shipwrecked and prayed to San Nicolas de Bari to save him. What that particular saint? Juan had a relic of San Nicolas with him so perhaps felt a bit of mortal remain in his possession might be persuasive of his devotion. He also made the promise to devote his life to helping pilgrims. Whatever it was, it did the trick, and the Camino is all the better for his escape from a watery grave.  He chose this area of the Way because it was so difficult for pilgrims and immediately set about building a good road between Villafranca to Burgos and building the aforementioned hospice. He also took the name Ortega, which means thistle, although his name is now loosely translated as Saint John of the Nettles.

It could have been Saint John of the Bees, because at one point his tomb was opened and out flew a swarm of white bees and a pleasing scent. This was interpreted to be the souls of unborn children San Juan was keeping safe until they could be interred into the wombs of the worthy and faithful. Many other miracles have been attributed to him, including several related to ill or distressed pilgrims. My right foot is not nearly enough to pray to him on its behalf, but I did hope other limping and suffering pilgrims might find their own miracle cure here.

He built a square and squat chapel adjacent to the monastery and dedicated it to his saviour San Nicolas de Bari, and it’s a quiet and lovely place. Some of it is original to the 12^th century, and it is tempting and even likely to think it may have been touched with his own hands and tools. We are a few days late, but on the equinox days of each year, the light of the setting sun hits the Virgin Mary. Amazingly this was forgotten for centuries and only rediscovered in 1974, when the modern day pilgrimage was only just returning!

He may be gone, but he is not forgotten as his building prowess has since cast him as the patron saint of all surveyors and technical architects.