Map of the Camino Frances

Thursday, September 6, 2018

Avant Camino - Bordeaux!


We unexpectedly have begun our Camino, if not our actual Camino.
 
It turns out that Bordeaux, in southwestern France, which is where we arrived to get an appropriate train to our starting point, get over jetlag and enjoy a glass of fine wine, happens to be one of the (many) points en route along the Camino de Compostella. This particular path is called the Camino de St. Jacques de Compostelle, one of the French paths that leads to the north coastal path of Spain, and which is called the Compostelle via Turonensis puis Camino Norte, different to the classic, inland Camino Frances that we will be doing. Bordeaux was a key stop on the way of the Camino via Turonensis and we have found many indications of the centuries of pilgrimage through the city.

how do I know that through this fabulous gate to the city
pilgrims of old walked?

 
Because the placque was on the street below its arch













 

For one thing, the characteristic scallop shell.
 

Even the street signs proclaim the Camino path
the symbol of the Camino: the scallop shell

 

 

For another, the many St. Jacques around town at specific cathedrals and gates of the city.

Can you see St. Jacques in this archway?




There he is, second from the right, with his
scallop-encrusted handbag
 




In between finding Camino talismans, we have enjoyed wandering around this gorgeous city of miel-coloured stone, exploring the old town and walking along the river, revisiting haunts first visited in 2012, including the fabulous Maison du Vin. We have had our fine glass of wine, along with some rather good charcuterie and cheese, a croissant that rescued us at the moment of desperation, and coffee that gave us the vapours, partly because it was so strong and partly because the combination of caffeine and air pressure just before a heavy downpour must have wreaked havoc with our brain matter. 
café fort!
 






 
sparrows hiding from the rain, and hoping for crumbs
a glass of red by St. Andre

Roman coliseum just down the block
Our apartment in Maison Bord’Eaux look out onto a street of construction and the ruins of a 1st century coliseum/arena. Having a quiet garden courtyard to sit in is like some medieval secret, and a mini-bar that includes champagne and cognac at bargain prices is enough to turn your head. I’m sure it’s what the peregrinos (pilgrims) would want us to do – imbibe. Along with cognac soaked raisins and chocolate covered lemon rind. After all, one never knows where one’s next meal will come from.
our room at the top, 3 windows facing the street
walking the walk
 


my favourite view of Bordeaux

2 comments:

  1. scallop encrusted handbag - oops meant to comment on that rather than purse!
    Love learning about the history and how you will get all that into those!

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  2. It seems my first comment did not get published, which means the comment that did doesn't make sense. I'm not sure where that comment went!

    ReplyDelete