Best Place so Far

In Los Arcos, there was no room at the inn, but we had found a room 5.5 km away, in the village of Mues, in a small, family run hotel. The owner himself came down to collect us (in his Mercedes!) and drove us there, grateful that he had someone in Martin who could speak Spanish as he had no English. It was a lovely old place right on the road, under the village church. Our room was wonderful, all stone walls with wide wooden beans and curved white plaster between them on the ceiling.

After washing and changing and stretching we had a glass of wine in front, watching the birds dive after bugs in the cooler early evening air. We were led to the basement where 3 tables we laid in the wine cellar. A small but excellent menu, and collegial company with four other pilgrims (from Malaysia, now living in Australia).  Ensalada mixta, which always includes tuna and hard boiled egg (vegetarians have it rough in Spain), then a local specialty of scrambled eggs with home-made chorizo, white asparagus, pork and tomato meatballs, then apple cake for desert. Bread, water and wine are included, although you have to pay extra for coffee.

We have become used to having a pitcher of local wine placed at the table. If one of us wants white and the other red, then there are two pitchers, and the idea is to drink what you want. For us it's usually just a glass, maybe two. Here, a bottle of good Navarra wine was set down, and despite our earlier beer, and glass of wine before dinner, we ended up finishing the entire bottle. Maybe it's because we have walked 3 long days in a row, with two shorter ones to come. Or maybe it's the good company, or the exceptional surroundings. Whatever it was, I have now become a fan of Navarra wine, with its Tempranillo grape alone or in combination. This was a particularly good combination. As we had consumed an entire bottle we fully prepared to pay extra the next day when we checked out, but the only charge added was 2 euros for our pre-dinner wine.