A shorter walk today, as we reach our next rest stop, and
a rest day tomorrow, wading through buoyant celebrations. Lorgrono is
celebrating the weeklong festival of San Mateo, which seems to have merged with
a general celebration of La Rioja wine and all that comes with it. The city is
the capital of the small but prosperous Rioja province and we found it in full
swing.
Parades of brass bands, complete
with Sousaphones and drums, take over the streets, followed by dancing children
and their parents. In all the main squares are degustation tables, where, for 2
euros, one receives a paper token,
which is immediately handed back to someone
else in exchange for a small plate of food. At one station it might be tuna and
roasted red peppers in baguette, at another it might be minced pork with a hunk
of bread, or it might be a slice of bread heaped with slices of roast duck and
apple sauce. Every small dish seemed to include meat and bread, but also wine.
You might be handed a small bottle of wine, or have a choice of a beaker of
wine or of water.
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