Boom Bang a Bang Bang

The focus of walking the Camino, is exactly that, the walk. Although each day we have a destination to reach, the destination itself has been chosen based on walking distance from the previous destination. Hence we often only have the vaguest idea of what is waiting for us in the towns and villages where we stay, and sometimes we have no idea. 

Such was the case when we turned up in Estella, in Navarra province. We had read that it was a lovely town, which it was. Once we had found where we were staying, been reunited with our bags, showered and napped we headed out to explore Estella before having a beer in the main square. It had been a particularly long hot day and we needed physical and spiritual sustenance.

It’s always a good idea on the Camino to head to the biggest church in town and see what’s going on. We visited St. Michael's, which was lovely, but empty. Next on teh list was Iglesia San Pedro which had a gorgeous cloister 

and amazing Romanesque carvings that are still deep and clear despite being almost 900 years old, and each one unique

Two sides of the cloister were destroyed when a castle on the hill above was blown up.

Then the bells inviting people to mass started up directly above us. Extremely loud! Just as we started to make our way inside we heard a terrific BLAM and ducked as a huge flock of birds all flew away in shock. We nervously got inside, passing seeing signs asking that the pilgrims not wander through and disturb the service. Pilgrims were the least of their worries. 

As we sat at the back and gazed at the modern art array of colours that filled the church from the waning sun shining through the stained glassed windows on the walls and gilded works, the nano-second of silence was destroyed by another loud explosion that ricocheted off the cliff just behind the church and reverberated throughout the town. The bells of San Pedro continued to peal and they too joined in the ricochet across the valley. Then another church started its bell ringing and then BLAM again! Then a third church bells - big booming ones that rocked and clanged with a shudder. BLAM! BLAM! What the heck was going on out there?

We looked at the locals. They were not bothered and neither was the woman conducting mass, although how anyone could hear her I don't know. So we decided not to be bothered. However, the deafening bells and what sounded like cannons going off next door went on for ages and we started to get the giggles and had to leave the church.  

We found out later that September 15 was a day celebrating and re-enacting a 400 year old battle. And bells just ring because that's what bells do.